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My First Surf in Lombok


I was fairly anxious about surfing because i doubt my swimming abilities , but the strong passion on challenging my fears obviously screams louder, loud enough for me to do this. To be completely honest if something would have happened and i panic and drown, it will take sometime for the coaches out at the sea in the waves and the people on the shore to come get me ( obviously they cant be surfing right next to me all the time..hmm.. or could they have) but either way, i assume that people who dare to try would have some sort of swimming skills i guest.

We were picked up by a van from our resort to the school to try on the shoes before heading to the shore which is a 3 minute walk (they were carrying in the surf boards) we just need to climb and not get cut while crossing the damaged walk way. Once we reach there, they gave us a brief on paddling and standing up , a demonstration on land and we practice about 15 times on land. it was mostly technical stuff , the most important safety rule at that time was to jump of the board when we reach before 3 metres away from the fisher men, Yup you heard me right. we are all sharing, harmonious circumstances haha. No worries though, all is well no one was hurt in this whole session.

what i do love about the coaches is that they are passionate in surfing, and motivating at all time. every surf, every complete surf, every fail attempt someone from behind you , infront of you are cheering for you constantly without fail, there was no one silent moment you think your alone. and it was those cheers and reminder commands that i listen to on the surf itself and adjust to what instructions i hear on the side, it was a great feeling. And i was amazed on the fact that i did my longest ride on my very first surf.

One thing that the coach said resonated in me, he said "remember that feeling". The feeling of surfing , and aim for that same feeling every time, when you feel that you know you are surfing right.

I guest in life this happens quite often, when you first cycle on 2 wheels, when you first sheer the salmon beautifully, when you hit the right note, when you played music in the coherent pacing , That feeling, that sweet spot, you know you got it.

I know what burns the fire in me, is to learn something new that interest me, is to face challenges that i want to and are afraid of failing and what i want the most out of life is to be inspired and perhaps even better, to inspire others.


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